Rolex GMT-Master II Diamond and Black Sapphire Bezel Yellow Gold 116748SANR BLACK OYSTER

The Rolex GMT-Master II 116748SANR represents one of the most exclusive configurations within this historically significant collection, which originally developed in collaboration with Pan Am Airways for transatlantic pilots. This particular reference elevates the utilitarian GMT concept through extensive use of 18k yellow gold and gem-setting, transforming it into a rare and highly collectible piece. The case and Oyster bracelet are constructed entirely from solid 18k yellow gold, featuring Rolex’s characteristic brushed and polished finishing that creates distinct light play on different surfaces. The fixed bezel is set with graduated baguette-cut black sapphires, a technically demanding feature due to the difficulty of sourcing consistently colored stones and cutting them to precise dimensions. The black dial provides a stark, legible contrast to the gold hands and applied hour markers, which are bordered in gold and filled with Chromalight luminescent material.

At the core of this watch is the Caliber 3186, a self-winding mechanical movement that is COSC-certified as a chronometer. This movement drives the central hours, minutes, and seconds hands, along with the independent 24-hour hand and the date function. The key complication is the GMT function, which allows the wearer to track a second time zone simultaneously. The 24-hour hand can be adjusted in one-hour increments independently of the main time display via the crown, a feature known as the “jumping local hour hand.” This functionality, combined with the bidirectional rotatable 24-hour bezel in its gem-set execution, makes it a sophisticated travel watch, though its precious metal construction positions it in a more formal category. The movement is protected by the robust Oyster case, which guarantees water resistance to 100 meters.

This specific example is in mint condition, showing only the most minor signs of careful handling, with no notable imperfections on the case, bracelet, or crystal. It is accompanied by its original Rolex warranty card, though it is noted that the backing layer on the card has peeled, which is a common occurrence and does not affect the card’s validity or the watch’s authentication. As a yellow gold GMT-Master II with a full black sapphire bezel, this reference is produced in extremely limited numbers compared to standard steel or two-tone models. Its combination of a historically significant tool-watch design with high-end materials and gem-setting creates a specific and sought-after niche in the collector’s market. This model consistently maintains a strong market position due to its rarity and the desirability of the GMT-Master II line, making it a solid acquisition for a collector focusing on modern, statement Rolex sports models.