Cartier Santos Watches
Big Watch Buyers offers a curated selection of authenticated, pre-owned Cartier Santos timepieces in the New York Diamond District. Browse our full Cartier collection or explore the Santos lineup below.
The First Wristwatch in History
In 1904, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont told his friend Louis Cartier that he could not check his pocket watch while flying — both hands were occupied controlling his aircraft. Cartier responded with a flat, square wristwatch with a leather strap and a buckle — the first purpose-built wristwatch designed for a specific active use. Santos-Dumont wore it on every subsequent flight, and the design was offered to the public in 1911 as the Cartier Santos. The exposed screws on the bezel were not decorative — they were the functional fasteners that held the bezel to the case, left visible because Cartier saw no reason to hide honest engineering. That principle — visible structure as design — became the defining aesthetic of the Santos and one of the most copied design elements in watchmaking. The current Santos (2018 redesign) retains every original element while adding a quick-change bracelet system and the caliber 1847 MC.
Anatomy of the Santos: Why Every Detail Is Original
The Square Case Not a design choice — a functional one. A square case sits flat on the wrist and does not rotate under the strap, which was critical for a pilot who needed to read the dial at a glance without adjusting the watch position. Every Santos since 1904 has been square for this reason.
The Exposed Screws The eight screws on the bezel are functional fasteners, not decorative appliqués. They hold the bezel ring to the case body. Cartier left them visible because hiding them would have added complexity without improving the watch. The screws have become the Santos's most recognizable element — copied by Bell & Ross, AP (Royal Oak), and dozens of others, but original to Cartier.
The Roman Numerals Cartier's signature dial typography — Roman numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9 with the Cartier name hidden within the X at 10 o'clock (a tradition dating to the 1920s). The sword-shaped hands in blued steel complete the dial architecture.
The Quick-Change System (2018+) The current Santos features a patented mechanism that allows switching between the steel bracelet and a leather or rubber strap in seconds, using a small lever hidden under the clasp. No tools required. This is the most practical strap-change system in luxury watchmaking — more intuitive than the Vacheron Overseas system and more robust than any spring-bar mechanism.
The Santos Lineup
Santos de Cartier Large (Ref. WSSA0018) The standard men's size. 39.8mm with caliber 1847 MC (40-hour power reserve). Steel case with steel bracelet and interchangeable leather strap. The Large is the most popular Santos configuration and the one that delivers the full square-case presence on the wrist.
Santos de Cartier Medium (Ref. WSSA0046) The versatile size. 35.1mm with caliber 1847 MC. The Medium works on wrists from 6–7.5" and is the preferred size for collectors who find the Large too bold. The Medium is also the most popular Santos for women who prefer the square aesthetic over the Tank or Ballon Bleu.
Santos-Dumont (Ref. WSSA0022) The dress Santos. No screws on the bezel, no quick-change bracelet — just a slim, polished square case on a leather strap with the hand-wound caliber 430 MC (based on Piaget 430P). The Santos-Dumont is the closest modern watch to the original 1904 design: thin, elegant, and deliberately simple. For collectors who want the Santos origin story without the sport-watch bulk.
Large vs. Medium vs. Santos-Dumont
| Large | Medium | Santos-Dumont | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Case | 39.8mm | 35.1mm | 31.4mm / 38mm |
| Bezel Screws | Yes | Yes | No (polished) |
| Movement | 1847 MC (auto) | 1847 MC (auto) | 430 MC (manual) |
| Quick-Change | Yes | Yes | No |
| Pre-Owned Steel | $5,000–$7,500 | $4,000–$6,000 | $3,500–$5,500 |
Pre-Owned Pricing Guide
| Model | Retail (approx.) | Pre-Owned Range | Savings |
|---|---|---|---|
| Large Steel (WSSA0018) | $7,800 | $5,000–$7,500 | 4–36% |
| Large Steel/Gold (W2SA0016) | $12,500 | $7,500–$10,500 | 16–40% |
| Medium Steel (WSSA0046) | $6,800 | $4,000–$6,000 | 12–41% |
| Medium Steel/Gold (W2SA0015) | $11,200 | $6,500–$9,000 | 20–42% |
| Santos-Dumont Steel (WSSA0022) | $5,650 | $3,500–$5,500 | 3–38% |
| Santos-Dumont Gold | $22,500 | $12,000–$17,000 | 24–47% |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Large or Medium — which Santos should I buy?
A: The Large (39.8mm) is the modern standard and the one that delivers the full Santos impact. The Medium (35.1mm) is more versatile and works on a broader range of wrists. If you're over 7" wrist, Large. Under 6.75", Medium. In between, try both — the square case wears differently than a round watch of the same measurement.
Q: Is the Santos a sport watch or a dress watch?
A: Both. It was born as a tool watch (aviation instrument) but designed with the aesthetic vocabulary of a dress watch (Roman numerals, blued hands, polished case). The current steel Large on bracelet is a daily-wear sport watch; the Santos-Dumont on leather is a dress watch. The collection spans both categories.
Q: How does the Santos compare to the Tank?
A: The Santos is square with exposed screws — sporty, structural, masculine. The Tank is rectangular with a smooth bezel — elegant, architectural, gender-neutral. Both are Cartier icons. Choose Santos for daily wear and wrist presence; choose Tank for dress occasions and design purity.
Sell or Trade Your Santos
Our specialists provide transparent valuations for every Santos reference. We understand the nuances: model generation (2018 redesign vs. older Galbée), case size (Large commands more than Medium), metal configuration (steel is most liquid, two-tone is best value), and the presence of the original box, certificate, and both strap options. Walk into our 47th Street showroom for an immediate appraisal, or use our fully insured Parcel Pro shipping label for a remote evaluation with same-day payment.
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