Rolex Explorer II Watches
Big Watch Buyers offers a curated selection of authenticated, pre-owned Rolex Explorer II timepieces in the New York Diamond District. Browse our full Rolex collection or explore the Explorer II lineup below.
The Cave Explorer's Compass
In 1971, Rolex launched the Explorer II (ref. 1655) for a very specific customer: cave explorers who spent days underground and needed to distinguish AM from PM. The solution was a fixed 24-hour bezel and an orange 24-hour hand that completed one rotation per day — at a glance, a caver could read whether it was 10 AM or 10 PM without seeing daylight. The original 1655 was nicknamed the "Freccione" (Italian for "arrow") for its fat orange hand, and it sold poorly for two decades — too niche, too odd, too orange. Then the collector market discovered it, and the 1655 became one of the most valuable vintage Rolexes, with clean examples trading above $40,000. The current Explorer II (ref. 226570, introduced 2021) carries the same 24-hour hand and fixed bezel, now in a 42mm case with caliber 3285 (70-hour power reserve). The orange hand is back — and this time, the market loves it.
The White Dial Phenomenon
The 2021 update brought back the white dial (ref. 226570-0002) for the first time since the 1655, and it immediately became the more demanded of the two configurations. The white dial with orange 24-hour hand is the most visually striking Explorer II ever produced — the orange pops against the white ground in a way it cannot against black. The white dial now trades at a premium over the black dial, reversing the historical pattern where black was standard and white was polarizing. For buyers choosing between the two, the white dial is the one that will be remembered as the defining look of this generation.
The Explorer II Lineup
Explorer II White Dial (Ref. 226570-0002) The collector's choice. 42mm steel case with caliber 3285 (70-hour power reserve), white dial, and orange 24-hour hand. The white dial is the most demanded Explorer II configuration and the one that trades at the highest premium above retail. The orange hand against the white ground is the visual signature of the current generation.
Explorer II Black Dial (Ref. 226570-0001) The stealth option. Same specs as the white dial with a black dial that reads as a conventional sport watch — the orange 24-hour hand is visible but less dramatic against the dark ground. The black dial is the choice for buyers who want the Explorer II's functionality without its visual exuberance. For multi-timezone tracking with a rotating bezel, consider the GMT-Master II as an alternative.
White vs. Black: The Dial Decision
| White Dial | Black Dial | |
|---|---|---|
| Orange Hand Impact | Dramatic, high contrast | Subtle, integrated |
| Visual Identity | Instantly recognizable | Reads as a conventional sport watch |
| Pre-Owned Premium | Higher | Lower |
| Versatility | Sport-casual | Sport-dress |
| Historical Echo | Evokes the 1655 "Freccione" | Evokes the 16570 "Steve McQueen" |
Pre-Owned Pricing Guide
| Model | Retail (approx.) | Pre-Owned Range | Premium/Discount |
|---|---|---|---|
| White Dial (226570) | $10,400 | $11,500–$14,500 | +11–39% |
| Black Dial (226570) | $10,400 | $10,000–$13,000 | -4 to +25% |
| Previous Gen White (216570) | Disc. | $7,500–$10,000 | N/A |
| Previous Gen Black (216570) | Disc. | $6,500–$9,000 | N/A |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Explorer II or GMT-Master II?
A: The GMT-Master II has a rotating bezel for tracking a third timezone and comes in multiple color configurations. The Explorer II has a fixed 24-hour bezel (AM/PM indicator only) and comes in two dial colors. The GMT is more functional; the Explorer II is more distinctive. If you need multiple timezone tracking, GMT. If you want a Rolex sport watch that nobody else at the table is wearing, Explorer II.
Q: Is the 42mm too large?
A: The 42mm wears smaller than the Submariner 41mm because the Explorer II has thinner lugs and no crown guard. On wrists 6.5" and above, it works. Below that, it may dominate. The previous generation (216570, also 42mm) wears identically.
Q: Why is the white dial more expensive than black?
A: Demand. The white dial with orange hand is the look that collectors want, and Rolex produces fewer white dials than black. The premium is purely market-driven — both dials use the same movement, the same case, and the same bracelet.
Sell or Trade Your Explorer II
Our specialists provide transparent valuations for every Explorer II reference. We understand the nuances: dial color (white commands a premium), reference generation (226570 vs. 216570 vs. 16570), and the presence of the original box, warranty card, and hang tags. Every Explorer II receives professional watch appraisal to verify condition and authenticity. Walk into our 47th Street showroom for an immediate appraisal, or use our fully insured Parcel Pro shipping label for a remote evaluation with same-day payment.
Visit Us in the Diamond District
Our showroom: 20 W 47th St., Suite 401, New York, NY 10036. Walk-ins welcome.
Hours: Mon–Fri 9 AM – 6 PM | Sat–Sun Closed | Phone: +1 (646) 429-9412
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