Breitling Chronomat Watches
Big Watch Buyers offers a curated selection of authenticated, pre-owned Breitling Chronomat timepieces in the New York Diamond District. Browse our full Breitling collection or explore the Chronomat lineup below.
The Watch That Saved Breitling
In 1984, Breitling was on the verge of collapse. The quartz crisis had devastated the Swiss chronograph market, and the brand that had once supplied cockpit instruments to the world's air forces had no product that anyone wanted to buy. Ernest Schneider — the entrepreneur who had just acquired the brand — commissioned a watch that would reverse its fortunes: the Chronomat. The design combined a bold 40mm case (enormous for 1984), a tachymeter bezel with signature rider tabs at 3/6/9/12, and a dial with contrasting subdials that read like an aircraft instrument panel. The Chronomat was an immediate commercial success, selling well enough to fund Breitling's recovery and establish it as the chronograph brand of the 1990s. The current Chronomat (2020 redesign) returns to the 1984 aesthetic — the rider tabs, the Rouleaux bracelet, and the bold case — while housing the in-house caliber B01 column-wheel chronograph that Breitling spent a decade developing. It is the most complete Chronomat ever made.
Spec Comparison: The Numbers That Matter
| Specification | Chronomat B01 44 | Chronomat B01 40 | Chronomat GMT 40 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Case | 44mm | 40mm | 40mm |
| Movement | B01 (in-house) | B01 (in-house) | B32 (in-house) |
| Complication | Chronograph | Chronograph | GMT + date |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours | 70 hours | 42 hours |
| Chronometer | COSC certified | COSC certified | COSC certified |
| Bezel | Rider tabs (tachymeter) | Rider tabs (tachymeter) | Rider tabs (24h) |
| Bracelet | Rouleaux | Rouleaux | Rouleaux |
The Chronomat Lineup
Chronomat B01 44 (Ref. AB0134101C1A1) The original proportion. 44mm steel case with caliber B01 (70-hour power reserve, column-wheel, vertical clutch), rider-tab bezel, and the Rouleaux bracelet. The 44mm is the Chronomat as it was conceived in 1984 — unapologetically bold. The B01 movement is visible through the sapphire caseback, and the finishing (Côtes de Genève on the rotor, snailing on the bridges) exceeds what is typical at this price point.
Chronomat B01 40 (Ref. AB0134101K1A1) The versatile size. 40mm with the same caliber B01 and the same rider-tab bezel at a scale that works on wrists from 6.5–7.5". The 40mm is the most popular Chronomat and the one most commonly recommended for buyers who find the 44mm too large.
Chronomat GMT 40 (Ref. AB0410171C1A1) The traveler's Chronomat. 40mm with caliber B32 (42-hour power reserve) driving a GMT complication with a 24-hour hand and a bi-directional rotating bezel with rider tabs. The GMT is the most functional Chronomat and the one that best serves Breitling's aviation heritage — a cockpit instrument for the wrist.
The B01: Breitling's In-House Milestone
Before 2009, every Breitling chronograph used a modified ETA 7750 or Valjoux 7753 — reliable, competent, but not manufacture-grade. The B01 changed that. Developed over five years and launched in the Chronomat, the B01 is a column-wheel, vertical-clutch chronograph with a 70-hour power reserve, a quick-change date, and a bidirectional winding rotor. It is produced entirely in Breitling's manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Every B01 is COSC-certified as a chronometer. The B01's introduction elevated the Chronomat from "a chronograph with an ETA heart" to "a manufacture chronograph at a competitive price" — and it remains one of the best value in-house chronographs on the market.
Pre-Owned Pricing Guide
| Model | Retail (approx.) | Pre-Owned Range | Savings |
|---|---|---|---|
| B01 44 Steel (Silver Dial) | $9,300 | $5,000–$7,500 | 19–46% |
| B01 44 Steel (Blue Dial) | $9,300 | $5,500–$8,000 | 14–41% |
| B01 44 Steel/Gold | $14,600 | $7,500–$11,000 | 25–49% |
| B01 40 Steel (Silver Dial) | $8,800 | $4,500–$7,000 | 20–49% |
| B01 40 Steel (Blue Dial) | $8,800 | $5,000–$7,500 | 15–43% |
| GMT 40 Steel | $8,700 | $4,500–$6,500 | 25–48% |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: 44mm or 40mm?
A: The 44mm is the historically correct size and the one that delivers the full 1984 Chronomat impact. The 40mm is the practical choice for wrists under 7.5". Both use the same B01 movement. If you are buying for authenticity and presence, 44mm. If you are buying for daily comfort, 40mm.
Q: How does the B01 compare to the ETA 7750 in older Chronomats?
A: The B01 has a column-wheel and vertical clutch (smoother pushers, more precise engagement), 70-hour power reserve (vs. 42–48 hours), and manufacture finishing visible through the caseback. The older ETA-based Chronomats are perfectly functional chronographs, but the B01 is a genuine upgrade in every measurable parameter.
Q: Is the Rouleaux bracelet comfortable?
A: Surprisingly yes. The rounded-profile links conform to the wrist better than flat-link bracelets, and the micro-adjustment in the clasp allows fine-tuning. The Rouleaux is one of the most distinctive bracelets in watchmaking and the one that most clearly identifies a Chronomat from across a room.
Sell or Trade Your Chronomat
Our specialists provide transparent valuations for every Chronomat reference. We understand the nuances: movement generation (B01 vs. older ETA-based), case size (44mm vs. 40mm), metal configuration, and the presence of the original box, warranty card, and documentation. Walk into our 47th Street showroom for an immediate appraisal, or use our fully insured Parcel Pro shipping label for a remote evaluation with same-day payment.
Visit Us in the Diamond District
Our showroom: 20 W 47th St., Suite 401, New York, NY 10036. Walk-ins welcome.
Hours: Mon–Fri 9 AM – 6 PM | Sat–Sun Closed | Phone: +1 (646) 429-9412
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