Rolex Submariner Watches
Big Watch Buyers offers a curated selection of authenticated, pre-owned Rolex Submariner timepieces in the New York Diamond District. Browse our full Rolex collection or explore the Submariner lineup below.
The Dive Watch That Defined the Category
When Rolex launched the Submariner (ref. 6204) in 1953, it was the first dive watch rated to 100m and the first to feature a rotating timing bezel. The concept was simple: a watch that a professional diver could rely on underwater, with a bezel to measure elapsed time and a dial designed for maximum legibility in low light. By 1956, the British Ministry of Defence was issuing Submariners to Royal Navy divers, and the watch had established itself as the professional standard. Sixty years later, the Submariner remains the most recognized dive watch on the planet — not because it is the most capable (several watches dive deeper), but because it defined the visual vocabulary that every other dive watch follows: black dial, white indices, rotating bezel, Oyster case. The current generation (2020+) features a 41mm case, caliber 3230/3235, and a ceramic bezel that will not fade or scratch.
The Submariner Lineup
Submariner No-Date (Ref. 124060) The purist's Submariner. 41mm with caliber 3230 (70-hour power reserve). No date, no Cyclops — just the clean dial that most closely resembles the original 1953 specification. The No-Date is the collector's choice and the reference that holds value most consistently. The symmetry of a dial without a date window at 3 is the reason many collectors prefer it over the Date version.
Submariner Date (Ref. 126610LN / 126610LV) The everyday Submariner. 41mm with caliber 3235 (70-hour power reserve) and the Cyclops date magnifier at 3. Available with black bezel/dial (126610LN) or green bezel/black dial (126610LV — the "Starbucks"). The Date is the best-selling Submariner configuration and the one most people picture when they think "Submariner." The green bezel variant commands a premium on the secondary market.
Submariner Two-Tone (Ref. 126613LN / 126613LB) The value Submariner. 41mm steel-and-yellow-gold with caliber 3235. Available with black (126613LN) or blue (126613LB) dial/bezel. The two-tone trades at or near retail on the secondary market — a fraction of the steel premium. For buyers who want the Submariner experience without the above-retail pricing, the two-tone is the smartest buy in the Rolex catalog.
Submariner Gold (Ref. 126618LN / 126618LB) The statement Sub. 41mm full yellow gold with black or blue dial/bezel. The gold Submariner is the most recognizable gold sport watch in the world — the one that signals success without apology. Pre-owned examples trade at 25–40% below retail, making them one of the best gold-sport-watch values available. For sport versatility in steel, consider the GMT-Master II with dual-time functionality.
No-Date vs. Date: The Collector's Debate
| No-Date (124060) | Date (126610LN) | |
|---|---|---|
| Dial Symmetry | Perfect (no date window) | Interrupted by Cyclops |
| Movement | Cal. 3230 (no date mechanism) | Cal. 3235 (with date) |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours | 70 hours |
| Pre-Owned Steel | $11,500–$14,500 | $12,500–$15,500 |
| Collectibility | Higher (purist preference) | Higher (mass demand) |
The No-Date vs. Date debate is the oldest argument in the Rolex community. Purists prefer the No-Date for its dial symmetry and historical fidelity. Practical buyers prefer the Date for its daily utility. Both are excellent — the price difference is minimal, so choose based on whether you need a date complication.
Pre-Owned Pricing Guide
| Model | Retail (approx.) | Pre-Owned Range | Premium/Discount |
|---|---|---|---|
| No-Date Steel (124060) | $9,100 | $11,500–$14,500 | +26–59% |
| Date Steel Black (126610LN) | $10,250 | $12,500–$15,500 | +22–51% |
| Date Steel Green (126610LV) | $10,250 | $14,000–$17,000 | +37–66% |
| Two-Tone Black (126613LN) | $15,350 | $12,500–$15,500 | -18 to +1% |
| Two-Tone Blue (126613LB) | $15,350 | $13,000–$16,500 | -15 to +7% |
| Gold Black (126618LN) | $39,750 | $24,000–$32,000 | -40 to -19% |
| Gold Blue (126618LB) | $39,750 | $26,000–$34,000 | -35 to -14% |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Why does the steel Submariner trade above retail?
A: Demand exceeds supply. The Submariner is the most requested watch at every Rolex authorized dealer, and waitlists for steel models run 6–24+ months. The secondary market premium reflects the price of immediate availability.
Q: Is the two-tone Submariner a good buy?
A: Exceptional. The two-tone delivers the same caliber 3235, the same ceramic bezel, and the same 41mm case as the steel model — at or below retail. You get the Submariner experience without the above-retail premium. The blue dial version (126613LB) is particularly attractive and holds value well.
Q: What changed from the 114060/116610 to the current 124060/126610?
A: The 2020 update increased the case from 40mm to 41mm, widened the lugs from 20mm to 21mm, and upgraded to the caliber 3230/3235 with 70-hour power reserve (vs. 48 hours on the older 3130/3135). The dial also gained broader indices and a slightly updated font. The older generation trades at a discount and remains an excellent buy.
Complete Submariner Reference Guide
Current Production (2020+)
- 124060 — Submariner No-Date. 41mm steel, Cal. 3230, 70-hour reserve. The purist's choice — no date, no Cyclops, perfect dial symmetry.
- 126610LN — Submariner Date, black dial/bezel. 41mm steel, Cal. 3235. The standard-bearer of the collection.
- 126610LV — Submariner Date, green bezel/black dial ("Starbucks"). Commands a premium over the black 126610LN.
- 126613LB / 126613LN — Current two-tone steel/gold. Blue ("Bluesy") or black. The value play — at or near retail on the secondary market.
- 126618LB / 126618LN — Full yellow gold. Blue or black. The statement Submariner.
- 126619LB — Full white gold with blue bezel. The stealth precious-metal Sub — reads as steel from a distance.
Previous Generation (2010–2020)
- 114060 — Submariner No-Date. 40mm steel, Cal. 3130. The last 40mm no-date Sub. Discontinued — climbing in value.
- 116610LN / 116610LV — Submariner Date. 40mm steel with ceramic bezel. The 116610LV ("Hulk") — all green dial and bezel — is the most sought-after discontinued Sub.
- 116613LB / 116613LN — Two-tone steel/gold with ceramic bezel. The "Bluesy" in its original 40mm form.
- 116618LB / 116618LN — Full yellow gold with ceramic bezel. Blue or black.
- 116619LB — Full white gold with blue ceramic bezel ("Smurf"). One of the most collectible modern Subs.
Vintage & Classic (Pre-2010)
- 16613LB / 16613LN — Classic two-tone with aluminum bezel. The faded blue bezel patina on the 16613LB is a collector favorite.
- 16610LN / 16610LV — Last aluminum-bezel steel Sub (16610LN) and the legendary "Kermit" (16610LV) with green aluminum bezel commemorating the Sub's 50th anniversary.
- 14060 / 14060M — No-Date steel Sub from the 1990s–2000s. The last Submariner without a ceramic bezel or Super Case.
- 5513 / 5512 — Vintage no-date Submariners from the 1960s–80s. Acrylic crystal, matte dial, patina-prone tritium lume. Investment-grade vintage references.
Shop by Color
- Black Submariner — The classic. Every generation, every material, in the original Submariner color.
- Green Submariner — Hulk, Starbucks, Kermit. The collector's choice across three generations.
- Blue Submariner — Available exclusively on two-tone and gold references. The "Bluesy" is the defining blue sport watch.
Sell or Trade Your Submariner
Our specialists provide transparent valuations for every Submariner reference. We understand the nuances: reference generation (124060 vs. 114060), date vs. no-date, bezel color (green commands a premium), metal configuration, bracelet condition (stretch is a key value factor), and the presence of the original box, warranty card, and hang tags. Every Submariner undergoes professional watch appraisal to verify authenticity and condition before we finalize any offer. Walk into our 47th Street showroom for an immediate appraisal, or use our fully insured Parcel Pro shipping label for a remote evaluation with same-day payment.
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Our showroom: 20 W 47th St., Suite 401, New York, NY 10036. Walk-ins welcome.
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