The Watch That Invented the Modern Wristwatch
In 1945, Rolex launched the reference 4467 — the first wristwatch to display the date in a window at 3 o'clock, and the first to carry the name "Datejust" (because the date changes "just" at midnight). It was also the first Rolex to receive the Jubilee bracelet, created specifically for the model. These three innovations — date window, automatic movement, and a dedicated bracelet — established the template for the modern everyday watch. Every date-displaying watch made since 1945 descends from the Datejust. The Cyclops magnifying lens was added in 1953, and the fluted bezel became a signature option in the 1950s as a functional reflection of the screw-down bezel design. Today, the Datejust is the best-selling Rolex in the catalog and the most widely recognized watch on the planet.
The Datejust Lineup
Datejust 41 (Ref. 126300 / 126334 / 126333) The modern standard. 41mm case with caliber 3235 (70-hour power reserve, Chronergy escapement). Available in steel (126300), steel with white gold fluted bezel (126334), and steel-yellow gold two-tone (126333). The 126334 with white gold fluted bezel is the current pre-owned market favorite — the fluted bezel delivers the classic Datejust aesthetic without the gold weight premium.
Datejust 36 (Ref. 126200 / 126234 / 126233) The classic proportion. 36mm with caliber 3235 (same as the 41mm). The 36mm is the historically correct Datejust size and the one most collectors prefer for dress versatility. The 126234 (steel with white gold fluted bezel) is the most demanded configuration in the 36mm range. On wrists under 7", the 36mm wears more proportionally than the 41mm.
Datejust 31 / 28 (Ladies) The women's Datejust. Available in 31mm and 28mm with a range of dial colors, diamond-set bezels, and two-tone configurations. The ladies' Datejust is one of the most gifted luxury watches in the world and holds value consistently on the secondary market.
Datejust Alternatives
If the Datejust is not the right fit, consider the Day-Date for a more prestigious dress watch in precious metals, or the Submariner for a sport-focused alternative with stronger water resistance. For travel, the GMT-Master II adds dual-time functionality to the everyday watch formula.
36mm vs. 41mm: The Size Decision
| Datejust 36 | Datejust 41 | |
|---|---|---|
| Historical Proportion | Original 1945 design | Modern interpretation |
| Wrist Range | 6–7.5" | 6.5–8"+ |
| Dial Presence | Classic, understated | Bold, contemporary |
| Dress Versatility | Fits under any cuff | May peek under slim cuffs |
| Pre-Owned Demand | Strong (collectors) | Strong (general market) |
The 36mm is the collector's choice — the size that Hans Wilsdorf intended and the proportion that has remained in production for 80 years. The 41mm is the commercial choice — larger, more visible, and more aligned with contemporary taste. Both use the same caliber 3235. Neither is "better" — they serve different preferences.
Pre-Owned Pricing Guide
| Model | Retail (approx.) | Pre-Owned Range | Savings |
|---|---|---|---|
| DJ41 126300 Steel (Smooth Bezel) | $7,950 | $6,500–$8,000 | 0–18% |
| DJ41 126334 Steel/WG Fluted | $9,250 | $8,000–$10,500 | 0–14% |
| DJ41 126333 Two-Tone Fluted | $13,550 | $9,500–$12,500 | 8–30% |
| DJ36 126200 Steel (Smooth) | $7,050 | $5,500–$7,000 | 1–22% |
| DJ36 126234 Steel/WG Fluted | $8,350 | $7,000–$9,500 | 0–16% |
| DJ36 126233 Two-Tone Fluted | $12,250 | $8,000–$11,000 | 10–35% |
| DJ36 128235 Full Gold | $36,550 | $22,000–$30,000 | 18–40% |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Smooth bezel or fluted bezel?
A: The fluted bezel is the Datejust's signature — it catches light from every angle and is instantly recognizable as Rolex. The smooth bezel is more understated and sportier. On steel, the smooth bezel (126300) is the value buy. On steel/white-gold, the fluted bezel (126334) is the one most people picture when they think "Datejust." If you're unsure, get the fluted — it holds value better.
Q: Jubilee or Oyster bracelet?
A: The Jubilee is the classic Datejust bracelet — five-piece links, more dressy, slightly more comfortable. The Oyster is three-piece, more sporty, and more durable over decades of wear. Both are correct for the Datejust. Choose Jubilee for dress, Oyster for daily wear.
Q: How does the Datejust hold value compared to a Submariner?
A: The Submariner trades at a higher premium above retail because demand exceeds supply more dramatically. The Datejust is more readily available at retail, so the secondary market premium is smaller. However, the Datejust depreciates less in percentage terms than almost any other luxury watch — it is one of the safest pre-owned purchases in the market.
Complete Datejust Reference Guide
Datejust 41 — Current Production (Cal. 3235)
- 126300 — Steel, smooth bezel, Oyster bracelet. The entry-level DJ41. Most sporty configuration.
- 126334 — Steel with white gold fluted bezel, Jubilee or Oyster. The most popular DJ41 — the classic look.
- 126333 — Two-tone steel/yellow gold, fluted bezel, Jubilee or Oyster. Warm gold accents at a fraction of full-gold pricing.
- 126331 — Two-tone steel/Everose gold, fluted bezel. The rose-gold two-tone — warmer and more contemporary than yellow gold.
- 126303 — Two-tone steel/yellow gold, smooth bezel. The sporty two-tone DJ41.
- 126301 — Two-tone steel/Everose gold, smooth bezel. Rose-gold sport configuration.
Datejust 36 — Current Production (Cal. 3235)
- 126200 — Steel, smooth bezel, Oyster. The entry-level DJ36. Clean, understated.
- 126234 — Steel with white gold fluted bezel. The best-selling DJ36 configuration.
- 126233 — Two-tone steel/yellow gold, fluted bezel. Classic two-tone in the original 36mm size.
- 126231 — Two-tone steel/Everose gold, fluted bezel. The modern rose-gold DJ36.
- 126203 — Two-tone steel/yellow gold, smooth bezel. Sporty two-tone DJ36.
- 126201 — Two-tone steel/Everose gold, smooth bezel. Rose-gold sport DJ36.
Datejust 36 — Diamond & Gem-Set References
- 126284RBR — Steel with white gold diamond-set bezel. Factory diamonds on the classic DJ36.
- 126283RBR — Two-tone yellow gold with diamond-set bezel. Gold warmth plus factory diamonds.
- 126281RBR — Two-tone Everose gold with diamond-set bezel. Rose-gold/diamond combination.
Previous Generation — Datejust 41 / 36 (Cal. 3135)
- 116300 — Previous DJ41 in steel with smooth bezel. Cal. 3136. The first 41mm Datejust (2009–2016).
- 116234 — Previous DJ36 in steel with white gold fluted bezel. Cal. 3135. Workhorse reference.
- 116233 — Previous DJ36 two-tone yellow gold, fluted bezel. The classic two-tone in 36mm.
- 116231 — Previous DJ36 two-tone Everose gold, fluted bezel.
- 116238 — Full 18k yellow gold DJ36. Fluted bezel, Jubilee bracelet. The all-gold Datejust.
- 115234 — Steel DJ34 with white gold fluted bezel. The mid-size Datejust — discontinued.
- 115200 — Steel DJ34 with smooth bezel. Entry-level mid-size.
- 116244 — Steel DJ36 with factory diamond white gold bezel.
Shop by Feature
- Fluted Bezel Datejust — The signature Datejust bezel. White gold on steel, yellow gold on two-tone.
- Two-Tone Datejust — Steel/gold combinations in yellow and Everose. The warmth of gold at accessible prices.
- Green Dial Datejust — Mint and olive green dials — the hottest color trend in the current Datejust lineup.
- Wimbledon Dial — The distinctive slate dial with green Roman numerals. Exclusively on Datejust.
- Roman Numeral Dial — Classic dial configuration across all Datejust sizes.
- Diamond Dial — Factory diamond hour markers on Datejust models in all metals.
Sell or Trade Your Datejust
Our specialists provide transparent valuations for every Datejust reference. We understand the nuances: reference generation (3235 vs. older 3135), bezel type (fluted commands a premium over smooth), metal configuration (steel/WG fluted is the strongest performer), dial color (black and blue are most liquid), and the presence of the original box, warranty card, and booklet set. During our professional watch appraisal, every Datejust is inspected for condition, authenticity, and completeness to ensure you receive the highest market offer. Walk into our 47th Street showroom for an immediate appraisal, or use our fully insured Parcel Pro shipping label for a remote evaluation with same-day payment.
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